Ballad of the Villages – Brut Nature

Description

This wine is called ‘Robert Dufour’ because it was in fact produced by Charles and his father, Robert, before Charles officially took over the domaine and renamed it. It’s 100% 2004 vintage, with the cuvée name referring to the fruit for the wine taken from each of the four villages where vineyards are held by the family: Landreville, Chervey, Neuville, and Celles-sur-Ource.

Fermentation and aging of the base wine was all in stainless steel tank; tirage was done in early May 2005; and then, in Charles’ words, “This wine stayed on the lees in bottles in the cellar at Rue de la Croix Malot without ever being commercialized. First in, first out. We disgorged 3000 bottles in May 2022 just for the fun of discovering what it’s like.”

As a Brut Nature, the wine has no added sugar and will have a very dry, crisp style. Brut Nature champagnes typically have less than 3 grams per liter of residual sugar.
It is made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc grapes. Pinot Noir can contribute red fruit flavors and structure, while Pinot Blanc adds citrus and mineral notes, hints of butterscotch, toffee, honey, and baked apple.

After the initial fermentation, the wine aged on the lees (yeast sediment) for 18 years before being disgorged in May 2022. Extended lees aging can impart biscuit, brioche, and nutty flavors.

Charles Dufour

Charles Dufour has been something of a breakout success in the world of natural wine. He represents a new generation of small vignerons. On top of his own vineyards, which are bottled under the Bulles de Comptoir label, since 2010 he has been making wines from some of his family’s vineyards situated in Celles-sur-Ource under his mother’s name, Françoise Martinot.

Charles employs a biodynamic approach, quite the challenge in this region’s marginal and unpredictable climate. In the cellar produces his vin clair using native yeasts, raising the wine in barrels and avoiding the use of sulfites altogether. He opts for extensive aging on the lees to yield complex, engaging champagnes with a beautiful vinous character.